we spent yesterday walking through the magnificent jain temple at ranakhpur….solid white marble and every last bit of it carved within an inch of it’s life.
1444 columns, 45 feet high, all carved intricately and no two the same.
the ceilings were domed masterpieces.
truly it was humbling and mind-bogglingly beautiful.
you take your shoes off at the door and ascend the steps.
padding around in bare feet on acres of cool white marble, out in the middle of the desert, was quite the experience.
however, it was not the wildest thing we saw all day.
for a complete contrast, we spent the afternoon climbing climbing climbing up to the kumbalgarh fort…then up many flights of narrow stairs within the 700 year old fort itself.
the late-afternoon view from the top was unforgettable and moving.
dotted all around and part of the fort complex, were many temples….some with an almost grecian flavour….domes and columns abounded.
to think how everything had to be carried up to the huge fort, first to build it and then to garrison it, was again….mind-boggling.
the sheer scale of things here takes the breath away.
none of it could have been done without an enormous and willing labour force.
the fort is part of the great wall of india….36 kilometres of high, wide, solid stone wall, stretching away as far as we could see.

later in the evening we drove back to the fort (from our beautiful hotel, the aodhi hunting lodge) and from a lookout point, we saw the entire thing get lit up in stages by spotlights.
everyone enjoyed the spectacle….quite magical…for 30 mins, then back to various accommodations for dinner.
and a well-deserved rest after the exerttions of the day.
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this morning we were up with the birds….literally, some very weird loud screeches from the trees outside our bedroom windows!
after spicy omelettes, we drove 150km on to deogarh, where we are staying at the 400 year old palace that has been turned into a hotel.
it looks like a huge fancy wedding cake, all turrets and balconies and fancy bits.
we walked down the entire narrow street of the town, then slipped up a side alley and lost ourselves in the winding back streets for an hour or two.
there was a surprise around every corner.
people are very friendly for the most part….lots of smiling, waving and namaste.
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tomnorrow, we are taking an antique train ride for 19 km and it leaves at 10.30 am IST….indian stretchable time.
which sounds like a very close relative of the balinese jam karet, or rubber time….